“Peddle, peddle, peddle! Stronger! Get up!” he yells at me while I get up on my feet on a moving board, water splashing around me, wobbly arms. All I can think is: my first wave! My first wave! Forgetting everything I learned about keeping balance and gaining speed by the sudden surprise of making it on my two feet, I fall off, warm salty water in my nose. My head pops up above the water again, showing the biggest grin possible. I just rode my first wave.
I have forever wanted to learn how to surf. I don’t live close to the beach and the waves in the Netherlands aren’t ideal for surfing, without even mentioning the water temperature. However, when I ended up in Indonesia instead of Nepal, my tucked away surfing desires suddenly started to emerge to the surface again. Thinking by myself: if not now, when? I booked a few days of surfing lessons at Pro Surf School in Kuta, Bali (if you ever find yourself there; they are awesome, very knowledgeable and their lessons are structured and cover much ground).
Within my first hour, I was up on my board. It was the best feeling ever. Catching a wave is such an adrenaline rush. Even if you fall off only a few seconds later, you get this inmense drive to catch the next wave, and the next, and the next, while improving your balance, timing, and getting up on your board.
I love surfing so much. The fact that the water was warm, the waves were good and I was progressing quickly deffinitely helped. Even though chances are that I won’t be surfing again any time soon back home, I am incredibly grateful for the chance to realise one of my long time dreams.
It can be intimidating to see small boys on an even smaller board succesfully catching waves and doing all kind of tricks and manouvres around you, when you’re struggling to even get up on your long board. But you have to start somewhere. Everyone who ever learned to surf went through the phase you’re in now. Without saying, that rings as true for learning anything other than surfing as well of course.
It’s never too late to learn something new.
Right now, you’re the youngest you’ll ever be to start learning something you know absolutely nothing about.
Your age is the dumbest thing to use as an excuse. Well, besides growing babies and needing reading glasses.
Yes, you would be better at whatever skill you’re attempting to acquire, if you would have started at the age of six. But there is no use to think that now. Better start now then in another 5 or 10 years. But even then, it’s never too late.
I want to be that 60 year old woman who takes up rope walking and Chinese. The person who keeps on learning her whole life. Someone who isn’t afraid or intimidated by much more skilled or young people doing similar things, but who enjoys the gift of learning and the time that is given to you in your lifetime to experience amazing things.
What do you want to learn?
May 30, 2015 at 13:36
Eee, I have always wanted to try surfing! It sounds exhilarating. :) Way to cross something awesome off your bucket list!
June 16, 2015 at 13:46
i want to learn how to surf too! i hope i can cross this off my bocketlist this summer!
June 17, 2015 at 12:28
That sounds awesome, I hope you do!
July 28, 2015 at 13:50
I learned surfing about two years ago. I had the same feeling you describe in this post! Good stuff!!!
July 29, 2015 at 08:23
It’s a amazing isn’t it! Don’t you just want to go back and surf right now? (I kind of do)
April 2, 2016 at 00:45
Way to go!! Surfing is not easy! I’m so glad I went to Pelan Pelan in Canggu on a small group surf and yoga retreat. They helped me feel comfortable out there in the waves and had excellent instruction. It’s the best feeling ever when you catch your first wave!